Squalane: What It Is, How It Can Help Your Skin and the Best Way to Use It in Your Routine

Should you try this ultra-lightweight face oil?

Author:
Michelle Villett
Updated:
Jan 11, 2024

If you’ve been studying your skincare labels since way back, then you’ve probably noticed squalane among the ingredients in your favourite moisturizers. Now, this superstar hydrator has stepped into the spotlight as a facial oil—and you might be wondering if it deserves a solo in your routine.

Brands like Biossance, Indie Lee and The Ordinary have all come out with their own versions of this sought-after oil, which is prized for its lightweight texture, fast absorption rate and immediate skin-softening effect.

In this tutorial, you will learn what squalane actually is, what it can do for your skin, and how to use it in your routine.

What Is Squalane?

Squalane is a type of emollient—an ingredient that helps to smooth and soften your skin.¹ What makes it unique is that it’s weightless, colourless and odourless, with the texture of a thin, lightweight oil. In fact, it is so fast-absorbing and non-greasy, it has been called “the water of emollients.”

Unlike plant oils, which are a mixture of hydrocarbons, triglycerides, esters and alcohols, squalane is a pure liquid hydrocarbon.^2,3 That means it consists of only carbon and hydrogen, and belongs to the same ingredient family as mineral oil and petrolatum.

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But while mineral oil and petrolatum are derived from petroleum, squalane is not a petrochemical. It’s the saturated form of squalene, a naturally-occuring lipid.

Squalane vs Squalene

Squalene (with an “e”) is a natural component of our sebum.⁴ In the past, it was extracted from shark livers, but these days, brands are using more ethical, sustainable sources such as olives, sugarcane, beets, wheat germ, rice bran and palm oil.

Besides helping to keep skin supple and flexible, squalene prevents water loss, acts as an antioxidant, and even protects against certain carcinogens.⁵ The only problem? It’s unsaturated, so it’s unstable and goes rancid quickly. That’s why it needs to be processed into squalane (with an “a”).

Squalane is created when the squalene undergoes hydrogenation. This turns the squalene from an unsaturated molecule into a saturated one, and greatly extends its shelf life. Most squalane oils on the market have an expiry date that is two to three years away.

Does the Source of Squalane Matter?

Does it matter where your squalane comes from? Maybe. Depending on the source, there are different impurities that can remain after hydrogenation. This can account for subtle differences in texture, rate of absorption and possibly even performance.

A century ago, when shark livers were the primary source, manufacturers were able to create a squalane of 98-99% purity. Today, olives and sugarcane are the most common sources, with a range of 75-94% purity.⁶


Olive Squalane	Sugarcane Squalane	Shark Liver Squalane
75-94% purity	75-94% purity	98-99% purity
May contain sterol esters and paraffin after hydrogenation	May contain isosqualane and monocyclosqualane after hydrogenation	No significant impurities after hydrogenation

Most people probably won’t notice much of a difference, but anecdotally, sugarcane versions tend to be the most lightweight, while olive varieties are often a bit richer.

What Does Squalane Do for Skin?

Now that you know what it is, does squalane belong in your skincare routine? Here are all the ways it can help your skin:

1. Hydrates and Softens

As an emollient, squalane improves your skin’s softness, flexibility and smoothness.⁷ But unlike most oils, which tend to sit on the skin surface, it penetrates fully, with no greasy residue.

“Similarly to hyaluronic acid, squalane can be seen to plump and hydrate the skin,” says Dr. Anjali Mahto.⁸

“Your natural squalene production starts to deplete dramatically at around 30... so using squalane helps to replenish these stocks to keep skin moisturized and looking youthful,” says Dr. Janet Mason.⁹

2. Prevents Moisture Loss

Besides being an effective hydrator, squalane also works to seal in moisture and prevent it from escaping—without feeling heavy or occlusive.

“Squalane oil actually helps to repair the barrier of your skin,” says Dr. Loretta Ciraldo. “So when you put it on, you’re not only preventing water loss, you’re also helping to protect the skin from harsh stuff in the environment.”¹⁰

That said, “if the skin is very dry and the environment is very dry, a stronger, heavier occlusive may be needed in addition to or instead of the squalane to lock in the moisture and ensure that hydration is not evaporating from the skin,” says Dr. Hadley King.¹¹

3. Soothes Chapped and Irritated Skin

Squalane also works wonders to soothe and repair rough, chapped, cracked or irritated skin that needs some extra TLC. In fact, it is often used to treat skin disorders such as eczema (atopic dermatitis), contact dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, acne and psoriasis.^12,13

“It has anti-inflammatory properties, so it can help soothe inflammatory skin problems such as eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and inflammatory acne,” says Dr. King.¹¹ Plus, it’s “ideal for sensitive skin, because it’s non-irritating and doesn’t induce allergic reactions—even at high concentrations,” says Dr. Samantha Ellis.¹⁴

4. Fights Free Radicals

When you think of antioxidants in skincare, vitamin C is probably the first one to come to mind. But squalane is an antioxidant, too, so it can help neutralize the free radicals that are linked to skin aging and even reverse some of the damage.⁵

“Squalane also has antioxidant properties,” says Dr. Ellis. “Environmental stressors like UV radiation, pollution, and the metabolic process in our bodies can cause oxygen free radicals in the skin, which can damage important structures in the skin like collagen. Antioxidants act like sponges that can soak up oxygen free radicals.”¹⁵

“Squalane is also a natural antioxidant which makes it helpful in preventing and treating signs of free radical damage which contribute to aging skin,” says Dr. Robin Schaffran.¹⁶

5. Prevents the Lipid Peroxidation That Leads to Acne

As an antioxidant, squalane can also prevent the oxidation of squalene in your sebum, which is a little-known trigger for breakouts. The process is known as lipid peroxidation, and it promotes inflammation, clogged pores and oxidative stress within the follicles.^7,17 In fact, some researchers think that oxidized squalene is actually the “driving force behind the progression of comedogenesis and inflammation in acne.”¹⁸

Fortunately, its stabilized form, squalane, can help. “Not only is squalane an excellent moisturizer, but it also functions as an antioxidant. It specifically helps protect the oils in the skin from undergoing a process called lipid peroxidation, which is believed to play a role in acne,” says Dr. Whitney Bowe.¹⁹

6. Reduces Excess Oil

Believe it or not, you can even use squalane to help balance oily skin.

“Many of my patients with oily skin also benefit from squalane because it is mattifying,” says Dr. Jeanine B. Downie. “It sucks up any excess oil and deeply nourishes without clogging pores.”²⁰

“Despite popular belief, people with oily, acne-prone skin would benefit greatly from using squalane oil,” says Dr. Marie Hayag. “Since it mimics what we naturally produce, introducing squalane oil can help regulate the amount of sebum the body makes.”²¹

Is Squalane Comedogenic?

Squalane is considered to be non-comedogenic.¹³ It’s far lighter than other oils, and most people report being able to use it without experiencing clogged pores or breakouts. Plus, as we just learned, it can actually help with acne by controlling oil, fighting bacteria and preventing lipid peroxidation.

However, you may still want to proceed with caution. “Generally speaking, I do not recommend squalane for people who have acne-prone skin,” says Dr. Joshua Zeichner. “It is a fully saturated fat and may cause breakouts in some people.”²²

If you break out easily, try a patch test first. Apply one to two drops on a smaller area, and monitor your skin closely. Also, some people may find that they can tolerate small amounts, whereas a larger amount of squalane oil makes them break out. Fortunately, a little squalane goes a long way.

How to Use Squalane Oil in Your Skincare Routine

Squalane is safe to use daily, as needed. There are several ways that you can incorporate it into your skincare routine:

In place of moisturizer: If you have normal to oily skin, you may find that squalane is sufficiently hydrating to replace the need for a moisturizing cream altogether.
Mixed with moisturizer: You can boost the hydration of your favourite moisturizing cream by adding a few drops of squalane. (Just mix them together in the palm of your hand.)
On top of moisturizer: When applied on top of your serums and creams, squalane will seal in moisture and help prevent it from escaping. (Be sure to apply sunscreen over top as your final layer in the daytime.)
Underneath moisturizer: As a general rule, oils usually go on after creams, since they form a barrier on top of your skin that prevents other ingredients from penetrating. But squalane is an exception, since it is so thin and fast to absorb. So you can even use it under your moisturizer to soften and soothe.

Conclusion + Further Reading

Now you’re up to speed on squalane—and why the beauty industry has been buzzing about it lately.

I like to call it “the face oil for people who hate face oils.” It’s so weightless and non-greasy that it really doesn’t feel like you’re wearing anything on your skin. Plus, most people tolerate it without any issues, no matter what their skin type. (I’m both acne-prone and sensitive to oils, and it has never once broken me out!)

Of course, another amazing benefit is that it’s super-stable—more so than any other oil you could use. That means it has a long shelf life, and you won’t need to worry about it going “off” before you finish the bottle.

Whether you use it to hydrate, soothe, control oil or combat acne, there’s no other hydrator that packs so many benefits in every drop!

^{Ciriminna, R., Pandarus, V., Béland, F. & Pagliaro, M. (2014). Catalytic Hydrogenation of Squalene to Squalane. Organic Process Research & Development. 2014; 18(9): 1110–1115.}
^{Decker, G. (2021, February 5). Natural Based Cosmetic Oils, Waxes, and Essential Oils. Prospector Knowledge Center.}
^{Lautenschläger, N. (2008). Fats and oils in cosmetics – Mother Nature versus petrochemicals? Kosmetische Medizin. 2008(2): 76–80.}
^{Picardo, M., Ottaviani, M., Camera, E. & Mastrofrancesco, A. (2009). Sebaceous gland lipids. Dermato Endocrinology. 2009 Mar-Apr; 1(2): 68-71.}
^{Huang, Z., Lin, Y. & Fang, J. (2009). Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology. Molecules. 2009 Jan; 14 (1): 540–554.}
^{Pandarus, V., Ciriminna, R., Be, F., Pagliaro, M. & Kaliaguine, S. (2017). Solvent-Free Chemoselective Hydrogenation of Squalene to Squalane. ACS Omega. 2017, 2, 7, 3989–3996.}
^{Sethi, A., Kaur, T., Malhotra, S. K. & Gambhir, M. L. (2016). Moisturizers: The Slippery Road. Indian Journal of Dermatology. 2016 May-Jun; 61(3): 279–287.}
^{Burcham, C. (2021). This is exactly how long it takes to see results from your skincare. Stylist.}
^{Murray, B. (2020, August 26). #BeautyGlossary: Everything you really need to know about squalane. Harper’s Bazaar.}
^{Jeon, H. (2020, March 10). Everything You Need to Know About the Beauty Benefits of Squalane Oil. Good Housekeeping.}
^{Saltzman, S. (2020, January 14). BUZZY BEAUTY INGREDIENT OF THE MOMENT: SQUALANE. Fashionista.}
^{Wolosik, K., Knas, M., Zalewska, A., Niczyporuk, M. & Przystupa, A. W. (2013). The importance and perspective of plant-based squalene in cosmetology. Journal of Cosmetic Science. Jan-Feb 2013; 64(1): 59-66.}
^{Purnamawati, S., Indrastuti, N., Danarti, R. & Saefudin, T. (2017). The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clinical Medicine & Research. 2017 Dec; 15(3-4): 75–87.}
^{Vincenty, S. (2021, January 26). 10 Best Squalane Oil Products for Your Face, and More. Oprah Daily.}
^{Becker, K. (2023, January 18). 6 Reasons to Look for Squalane in Your Skincare. Oprah Daily.}
^{Readman, M. (2022, February 8). Here’s Why Dermatologists Say You Should Be Using Squalane Daily This Winter For Younger Looking Skin. SHEfinds.}
^{Mills, O. H., Criscito, M. C., Schlesinger, T. E., Verdicchio, R. & Szoke, E. (2016). Addressing Free Radical Oxidation in Acne Vulgaris. Journal of Clinical & Aesthetic Dermatology. 2016 Jan; 9(1): 25–30.}
^{Bowe, W. P. & Logan, A. C. (2010). Clinical implications of lipid peroxidation in acne vulgaris: old wine in new bottles. Lipids in Health and Disease. 2010; 9: 141.}
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^{Wohlner, O. (2021, January 19). 3 Reasons to Add Squalane to Your Skin-Care Arsenal. NewBeauty.}
^{Lambert, B. (2023, October 17). Squalane Is The Key to Hydrating Super Dry Skin, According to Derms. Byrdie.}
^{Engler, A. (2021, November 10). Squalane Oil: Skin Care Benefits & Our Favorite Products. MindBodyGreen.}

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