Michelle Villett/The Glow Memo
Salicylic Acid: What It Is, How It Can Help Your Skin and the Best Way to Use It in Your Routine
Salicylic acid has long been the darling of the acne aisle at the drugstore. And for good reason—this chemical exfoliant is unmatched in its ability to clear and prevent blemishes.
But if you think that’s all it can do, think again. What you might not know is that salicylic acid can actually be used by all skin types, and helps with a wide range of skin concerns. Plus, it offers distinct benefits that other acids (like glycolic and lactic) don’t have.
Consider this tutorial your complete guide to salicylic acid. You will learn how it works, what it can do for your skin, and the best way to use it in your skincare routine.
What Is Salicylic Acid?
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA).
Michelle Villett/The Glow Memo
Salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant derived from willow tree bark, sweet birch or wintergreen leaves. As a salicylate, it belongs to the same ingredient family as aspirin. It’s also one of the most common hydroxy acids used in topical skincare products.1,2
While glycolic acid and lactic acid are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). That means it has a slightly different chemical structure—and most importantly, that it is oil-soluble. So unlike AHAs, which are water-soluble, it can penetrate through layers of sebum, deep into the pores.3
This ability to exfoliate at a deeper level within the skin is what makes salicylic acid unique compared to other hydroxy acids. But that’s not all. It also has lipophilic (oil-dissolving), keratolytic (keratin-softening) and anti-inflammatory properties.1
What Does Salicylic Acid Do for Skin?
Salicylic acid can clear acne, reduce excess oil, brighten dull skin and more.
Michelle Villett/The Glow Memo
So, how exactly can salicylic acid help your skin? Let me count the ways....
1. Clears and Prevents Acne
Salicylic acid is a go-to treatment for acne. Not only can it help to calm and clear active breakouts, it also works to prevent the formation of the comedones that lead to acne.1
Researchers have found that as little as 0.5% can reduce the number and severity of all types of acne lesions, and is more effective than benzoyl peroxide.4 In another study, using a 1.5% concentration, 95% of patients saw an improvement in their acne after just four weeks, with 20% experiencing complete clearing.5
Rather than spot-treating, experts recommend a daily application of salicylic acid over all acne-prone areas as a preventative measure. “Instead of treating pimples as they appear, it’s more effective to use a gentle product that contains salicylic acid every day,” says Dr. Whitney Bowe. “This helps prevent breakouts on a regular basis.”6
2. Reduces Excess Oil
Salicylic acid keeps oily skin in check in two ways. As a lipophilic agent, it removes excess sebum. It has also been found to lower your skin’s overall sebum production by suppressing certain cellular pathways.7
“Salicylic acid is lipophilic, which means it is able to dissolve oils,” says Dr. Jerome Garden. "This allows it to penetrate into the pores and dry out your oily skin.”8
The trick is to find the right concentration and application frequency to keep oil in balance without drying out your skin. Most people will find 0.5-1% to be sufficient when applied a few times a week or even daily, if tolerated.
3. Minimizes Pores
You can’t change the size of your pores, but you can make them look smaller by keeping them clean—and salicylic acid can help.
“The reason pores look bigger than they actually are is because they’re clogged with dead skin cells mixed with oil,” says esthetician Shani Darden.9
“Salicylic acid is oil soluble, meaning it’s able to get inside pores to gently push out dead skin, bacteria, sebum, and any other pore-clogging debris,” says Dr. Howard Sobel.10
By removing all that gunk, your pores won’t be so stretched out, so they’ll look smaller and oil will be able to flow out freely.
4. Smooths and Brightens
Contrary to popular opinion, AHAs aren’t the only option for exfoliating your skin surface. There’s no reason why you can’t use salicylic acid the same way for smoother, brighter-looking skin.
“Salicylic acid acts as a keratolytic to help break down dead skin cells,” says Dr. Marisa Garshick.11 Recent studies have also identified it as a desmolytic agent, which means that it acts on the intracellular junctions called desmosomes.1 In other words, it softens and weakens the proteins that hold dead skin cells together, and sloughs them away to reveal new, fresh skin.
“It’s suitable for anyone looking to improve the texture and tone of their skin,” says Dr. Divya Shokeen.12
5. Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Believe it or not, salicylic acid can be anti-aging, too.
“The exfoliative properties of salicylic acid have been shown, over time, to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by promoting collagen growth,” says Dr. Dendy Engelman.13
One study, for example, found that a weekly 30% peel led to a thickening of the epidermis, increased density of collagen, and more elastic fibers after six weeks.14 Other research has found that salicylic acid (along with other hydroxy acids) helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles, lighten age spots, firm the skin and restore hydration.3
6. Fades Pigmentation
Anyone dealing with dark spots, post-acne marks or sun damage should consider salicylic acid as part of their treatment protocol.
It works by encouraging the shedding of your skin’s top layer (and therefore the old, darkened dead skin cells). But unlike other methods of exfoliation, its has a low risk of irritation due to its anti-inflammatory nature.
“While some AHAs and other acids can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, you won’t see that with salicylic acid,” says Dr. Haleh Bakshandeh. “It’s a very safe and predictable acid. I use it to treat patients with darker skin looking to correct sun and age spots and hyperpigmentation issues.”15
How to Use Salicylic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
Salicylic acid can be used a few times a week, or as often as daily.
Michelle Villett/The Glow Memo
Most people think of salicylic acid as just a spot treatment for pimples. But to get the most out of this ingredient, you ideally want to use it as an all-over chemical exfoliant. So look for a salicylic acid-based toner, gel or serum.
It’s important to choose the right strength for your skin. If you’re new to acids, or if you have dry or sensitive skin, go for a milder concentration, such as 0.5-1%. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, you may be able to handle a higher dose, such as 1-1.5% or even the maximum 2%.
Also consider how often you’ll apply it. It’s a good idea to start slowly, including salicylic acid in your routine just a few times a week. If your skin is tolerating it well, you can gradually increase your application frequency. For acne, you’ll get the best results if you can use salicylic acid daily.
No matter what strength and frequency you decide on, always watch your skin and back off if you experience irritation.
To apply salicylic acid:
- Wash your face: Acids should be applied on clean, dry skin after cleansing. Avoid other exfoliants when using salicylic acid, as this will increase the risk of irritation.
- Apply a thin layer: Spread a thin layer of the acid over your face, avoiding the lips and eye area. Alternatively, you can just concentrate it on areas of congestion, such as your T-zone.
- Wait 15-30 minutes: Acid exfoliants operate at a low (acidic) pH level, so it’s a good idea to wait before applying any products with a higher pH (such as moisturizers) on top. That way, the acid has a chance to fully penetrate and do its job under optimal conditions.
- Hydrate and protect: Since acids can be drying, make sure to hydrate your skin with your preferred serums and moisturizers. In the daytime, always finish with sunscreen.
Can You Use Salicylic Acid With Other Active Ingredients?
Salicylic acid can be used at the same time as other acidic ingredients, but proceed with caution.
Michelle Villett/The Glow Memo
If you want to layer salicylic acid with other active ingredients, here’s what you need to know:
Salicylic Acid and Retinol
You can use salicylic acid and retinol in the same skincare routine. Since they are formulated at different pH levels, mixing them or applying them at the same time is not advised. Use them at different times of day, or wait about 30 minutes after salicylic acid to apply your retinol. Keep an eye on your skin—having both ingredients in your routine will increase the risk of irritation.
Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide
You can use salicylic acid and niacinamide in the same skincare routine. However, combining them or layering them at the same time is not recommended because of their different pH levels. I suggest using them at different times of day, or waiting 30 minutes after your salicylic acid to apply the niacinamide.
Salicylic Acid and Vitamin C
You can use salicylic acid and vitamin C in the same skincare routine. But first, you need to know what type of vitamin C you have. Acidic forms of vitamin C such as L-ascorbic acid can be applied at the same time as salicylic acid, since they will have a similar pH level. However, you’ll need to watch your skin since using both can increase irritation. Non-acidic vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate should be used at a different time than salicylic acid (or 30 minutes apart), since they have different pH levels.
Salicylic Acid and Other Acids
Although you can use salicylic acid in the same skincare routine as other acid exfoliants, it’s unnecessary. According to the late Dr. Albert Kligman (a pioneering researcher in the field of hydroxy acids): “Salicylic acid does everything AHAs do and more, and does it more effectively.”16 So if you already have a salicylic acid product, there’s no additional benefit to adding an AHA as well.
Does Salicylic Acid Cause Purging?
If you start breaking out after adding salicylic acid to your routine, don’t panic—your skin is probably purging.
Purging is an initial period of increased breakout activity that can occur after starting an active product that increases skin cell turnover. Salicylic acid is the most likely to cause a purge because it works on top of the skin as well as inside the pores, loosening both dead skin and trapped sebum. This brings any underground comedones to the surface all at once, whereas they’d otherwise take weeks or months to arise.
The good news is that purging doesn’t go on forever, and most people will see an improvement within about a month.
Not sure if you’re really purging? Here’s how to tell the difference between skin purging vs breakouts.
How Long Does Salicylic Acid Take to Work?
Don’t give up on salicylic acid too soon. While it does produce some immediate improvements, it takes time for its full benefits to become apparent.
As with any acid, you’ll get a glow and smoother texture right away, thanks to the removal of dull, rough dead skin cells. Its oil-dissolving properties can also work quickly to dry out active blemishes.
However, to really start preventing future breakouts, it can take at least four to eight weeks of consistent use. A study found that 2% salicylic acid reduced the number of acne lesions after four, eight and 12 weeks. But the best reduction in inflamed lesions occurred after 12 weeks.17 So keep going—and continue using it to maintain your results.
Conclusion + Further Reading
Now you know why salicylic acid is my chemical exfoliant of choice.
For me, salicylic acid has been far more effective than AHAs at keeping my skin bright, smooth and clear, without irritation. My pores are cleaner, my skin is softer and produces less oil, and any dark marks fade quickly. Breakouts are rare, and when they do arise, they’re less inflamed and disappear fast. I actually find that salicylic acid has a calming effect on my skin, and it never gets red or flaky like it used to with AHAs.
Needless to say, I think this acid is well worth your consideration. The only catch? You just need to find the right strength and the right frequency for your skin.
Learn More From These Related Articles
Sources
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2015; 8: 455–461.
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G. & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2010; 3: 135–142.
- Moghimipour, E. (2012). Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents. Jundishapur Journal of Natural Pharmaceutical Products. 2012 Winter; 7(1): 9–10.
- Zander, E. & Weisman, S. (1992). Treatment of acne vulgaris with salicylic acid pads. Clinical Therapeutics. Mar-Apr 1992; 14(2): 247-53.
- Zheng, Y., Wan, M., Chen, H., Ye, C., Zhao, Y., Yi, J., Xia, Y. & Lai, W. (2013). Clinical evidence on the efficacy and safety of an antioxidant optimized 1.5% salicylic acid (SA) cream in the treatment of facial acne: an open, baseline-controlled clinical study. Skin Research and Technology. 2013 May; 19(2): 125-30.
- Pai, D. (2019, February 3). 8 Things to Avoid When You're Breaking Out. Glamour.
- Lu, J., Cong, T., Wen, X., Li, X., Du, D., He, G. & Jiang, X. (2019). Salicylic acid treats acne vulgaris by suppressing AMPK/SREBP1 pathway in sebocytes. Experimental Dermatology. 2019 Jul; 28(7): 786-794.
- Sinrich, J. (2018, June 15). 9 Habits That Could Be Making Your Oily Skin Even Oilier. Self.
- Catanese, N. (2015, May 19). Can You Shrink Your Pores? Harper’s Bazaar.
- Hall. C. (2019, June 14). Can You Actually Shrink Your Pores? A Dermatologist Weighs In. Elle.
- Sinay, D. (2022, April 11). Why Derms Always Recommend Salicylic Acid For Oily & Acne-Prone Skin. Bustle.
- Rivas, G. (2023, June 22). These Salicylic Acid Cleansers Do More Than Fight Breakouts. Oprah Daily.
- Sasso, S. (2016, July 12). We’ve All Been Underestimating This Acne-Fighter. Refinery29.
- Ali, A. & Elmadany, E. (2017). Dermal morphological changes following salicylic acid peeling and microdermabrasion. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2017 Dec; 16(4): e9-e14.
- O’Connor, T. (2015, August 19). Hydroxy Acids: What They Do and Which Ones Are Right for You. Dermstore.
- Skolnick, L. (1997, June 8). TAKING THE ACID TEST: ALPHA-HYDROXY VS. BETA-HYDROXY. Chicago Tribune.
- Eady, E. A., Burke, B. M., Pulling, K. & Cunliffe, W. J. (1996). The benefit of 2% salicylic acid lotion in acne a placebo-controlled study. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 1996, 7(2), 93‐96.
