Niacinamide: What It Is, How It Can Help Your Skin and the Best Way to Use It in Your Routine

Imagine there was a single skincare ingredient that could treat almost all of your skin concerns. I’m talking about problems like pigmentation, wrinkles, acne, excess oil, large pores, dryness and redness, to name just a few.

Impossible, you say? Not when you’ve got niacinamide in your routine. Also known as vitamin B3, this active ingredient is so versatile, gentle and effective that just about everyone can use it.

In this tutorial, you will learn the benefits of niacinamide, what it can do for your skin, and how to incorporate it into your routine (no matter what your skin type). 

What Is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 (niacin), a water-soluble B vitamin.¹

Niacinamide in the Body

We create niacinamide in our bodies when we eat foods that are high in niacin, such as beef liver, chicken breast and rice. The niacin gets converted into niacinamide in the gut and then it is absorbed. Once that happens, it gets metabolized into the coenzyme NAD and its derivative, NADP.¹ These coenzymes are essential for cellular metabolism, meaning they give our cells the energy they need to carry out their functions. In fact, they are involved in over 40 biochemical reactions, including such important jobs as DNA repair and cell turnover.^2,3

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Niacinamide in Skincare

In skincare products, the niacinamide that is used is 100% synthetically derived. Topically, it performs many actions on the skin—which we’ll get to in a moment—but the mechanism behind them is not fully understood yet. So far, researchers suspect that niacinamide’s role as a precursor to the NADP family of coenzymes is a key factor in its array of skincare benefits.² We know that it readily penetrates, and skin cells have increased levels of NAD after application.^4,5

Depending on the concentration applied, niacinamide has six major actions:

• Antipruritic (soothing)
• Antimicrobial (kills microorganisms)
• Vasoactive (improves circulation)
• Photoprotective (protects from sun damage)
• Sebostatic (reduces sebum)
• Lightening (fades dark spots)⁶

Now let’s dive into what this means for your specific skin issues.

What Does Niacinamide Do for Skin?

Here are all the ways that niacinamide can help your skin:

1. Fights Free Radicals

The most well-studied effect of niacinamide is its function as an antioxidant. It works to neutralize the free radicals in the environment that can age our skin. 

Free radicals are unstable molecules (which can come from sources such as the sun and pollution) that deplete the natural antioxidants in our skin. This imbalance between antioxidants and free radicals is called “oxidative stress” and can cause signs of aging by damaging proteins, DNA and other parts of skin cells.⁷

When you apply niacinamide topically, it fights free radicals and oxidative stress by increasing the antioxidant capacity of your skin. This happens because it raises levels of the NAD coenzymes, which have potent antioxidant properties.²

That makes it an excellent alternative to vitamin C-based antioxidant serums. Bonus: It’s gentler and more stable than L-ascorbic acid, which can be irritating and oxidizes quickly.

2. Fades Pigmentation

Niacinamide is a proven treatment for all sorts of pigmentation issues, from dark spots and discolourations to brown patches and melasma.

Several split-face trials have been conducted with participants using niacinamide on one side of their faces only. One study found that a 5% concentration significantly lightened hyperpigmentation after eight weeks, while another found that the same amount significantly improved dark spots after 12 weeks.^8,9

Even as little as 2% can produce results. In a comparison of an SPF 15 cream with and without 2% niacinamide, the group that used niacinamide had noticeable improvements in hyperpigmentation after four weeks.⁸

It is also effective on deeper skin tones. A study of Indian women using a cream with 4% niacinamide, 0.5% provitamin B5 and 0.5% vitamin E found that it significantly reduced hyperpigmentation and improved skin tone evenness in six to 10 weeks.¹⁰

Plus, it is a promising treatment for melasma. In a split-face test, melasma patients applied 4% niacinamide on one side of their faces, and 4% hydroquinone on the other. After eight weeks, both sides showed pigment improvement, with no statistically significant difference in the outcomes. Also, the niacinamide side had fewer side effects.¹¹

3. Reduces Wrinkles

Although it’s not usually touted as an anti-aging treatment, niacinamide can reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Some researchers suggest it does so by increasing the production of dermal collagen and epidermal proteins.²

But it may be more accurate to suggest that it normalizes collagen, keeping it supple and flexible. “Niacinamide inhibits protein glycation, effectively reducing deposition of cross-linked collagen and elastin molecules in the skin,” says Dr. Patti Farris. “Cross-linked collagen and elastin molecules are stiff and rigid, resulting in altered viscoelastic properties of the skin.”¹²

Whatever the mechanism, studies show that a concentration of 5% produces significant improvements in fine lines and wrinkles after 12 weeks, while 4% reduces eye-area wrinkles after eight weeks.^9,13

4. Treats Acne

With its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and sebum-controlling properties, niacinamide can help to treat acne.^6,12,14 Plus, it does not have harsh side effects like more common acne treatments, such as antibiotics and retinoids.

For moderate inflammatory acne, 4% was found to produce comparable results to 1% clindamycin, a topical antibiotic. After eight weeks of use, both produced statistically similar reductions in the number of breakouts and their severity—but clindamycin can lead to bacterial resistance, while niacinamide does not.¹⁵ Another study on acne patients found that 5% niacinamide was comparable to 2% clindamycin, with no side effects.¹⁶

5. Controls Excess Oil

Maybe you don’t have acne, but you struggle with oily skin. Well, niacinamide can help with that, too. Researchers have discovered that as little as 2% can lower the amount of sebum produced and the rate of sebum excretion. These changes took place after two, four and six weeks.¹⁴

This is an important difference versus most mattifying products. They typically work by absorbing excess oil with ingredients like talc, clay and starch. In contrast, niacinamide targets oily skin at its source by reducing how much oil your skin makes and slowing down its release. 

6. Shrinks Pores and Smooths Texture

You’ve probably heard that you can’t shrink your pores. But actually, you can—with niacinamide. “Clinically it reduces pore size, and improves skin texture,” says Dr. Farris.¹²

Researchers conducting double-blind clinical trials of niacinamide observed that it significantly reduces the look of pore size and rough skin texture. Further image analyses showed significant reductions in pore size and pore count as early as two to four weeks after commencing treatment.¹⁷

Using salicylic acid and niacinamide can give you even better results. A 12-week study found that a topical regimen that includes both ingredients improves pore size, pore count and skin surface texture.¹⁷

This likely happens because of niacinamide’s effect on sebum. Pores appear larger when they are filled with oil. When oil production is reduced, they’re not as stretched out, so they “shrink.” Of course, with smaller pores, your skin texture looks smoother.

7. Reduces Redness

If you’re prone to redness, niacinamide is one of the best ingredients that you can apply. It is thought to be effective because it improves the function of the skin barrier, reducing irritation when the skin encounters triggers (such as harsh detergents).²

One study found that 5% significantly improved red, blotchy skin after 12 weeks.⁹ Another found that a cream containing a concentration of 2% improved the signs and symptoms of rosacea after just four weeks, with a marked decrease in redness.¹⁸

8. Strengthens the Skin Barrier

If your skin is not only red but also intolerant—even stinging when you apply your skincare—then it’s possible that your skin barrier has become damaged. This can happen when you’re using harsh ingredients (think: sulfates, acids, retinoids or gritty scrubs) that strip and dehydrate your skin. Invisible cracks develop between skin cells, allowing water to escape and irritants to enter.

Niacinamide can help to restore a strong and healthy skin barrier. It does so by increasing levels of ceramides and free fatty acids in the skin barrier, increasing its thickness, improving its moisture content, and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).^19,20,21

9. Reduces Dryness

Another way that you can use niacinamide is to treat dry skin, as an alternative to the usual hydrating serums. Its ability to thicken the skin barrier and improve its function means that your skin will be more capable of holding onto hydration.

A study had patients with eczema use a 2% niacinamide cream on one forearm, and petroleum jelly on the other. The niacinamide side significantly decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), but the petroleum jelly did not. The niacinamide was also significantly more effective at increasing hydration in the skin’s outermost layer.²² In another study on rosacea patients, the same concentration improved dryness, scaling and peeling.¹⁸

10. Reduces Sallowness

Ever noticed how some people’s skin seems to take on a sallow, yellow cast as they get older? It happens in response to oxidative stress, which increases as we age, and causes proteins in the skin to turn a yellowish-brown colour.²

Fortunately, niacinamide can help. By increasing the skin’s levels of NADP and NADPH (which are both antioxidants), it is thought to inhibit oxidative processes and therefore treat or prevent the yellowed, oxidized skin proteins.²

This has been demonstrated by researchers who had subjects apply a concentration of 5% twice daily over a 12-week period, and noted significant improvements in sallowness or yellowing.^9,23

11. Protects from UV Damage

Consider layering niacinamide under your sunscreen if you are spending time in the sun. Research has shown that it can repair damage and has some important photoprotective properties.

One study had participants apply 0.2% or 5% niacinamide immediately after UV exposure. The 5% group had the biggest reduction in UVA- and UVB-induced immunosuppression, suggesting that it can optimize photoprotection when used with sunscreen.²⁴ Other research confirmed that it aids in DNA repair after sun exposure, and is a promising agent for skin cancer prevention.^25,26

How to Use Niacinamide in Your Skincare Routine

As a water-soluble vitamin, niacinamide comes in powder form and will not dissolve in oil. So you’ll typically find it in water-based serums—the most effective way to treat your skin. They allow for higher concentrations of the active, and will penetrate your skin more deeply than creams.

If you’re new to this ingredient, I recommend starting with a concentration around 5%. This is more than enough to get results, since the clinical studies demonstrating its effectiveness were conducted with amounts between 2-5%.

Niacinamide is safe to use as often as twice per day, morning and night. You can apply it to bare skin after cleansing, and before your hydrating serum, moisturizer, and/or sunscreen.

Can You Use Niacinamide With Other Active Ingredients?

Niacinamide is one of the gentlest and most stable active ingredients, with a neutral pH (around pH 6.0). That makes it a great option if you want to treat your skin with an active ingredient, but can’t handle retinoids, chemical exfoliants or L-ascorbic acid. 

However, if you want to layer niacinamide with other active ingredients, here’s what you need to know:

Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid

You can use glycolic acid and niacinamide in the same skincare routine. Since they are formulated at different pH levels, mixing them or applying them at the same time is not advised. Use them at different times of day, or wait about 30 minutes after glycolic acid to apply your niacinamide.

Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid

You can use salicylic acid and niacinamide in the same skincare routine. However, combining them or layering them at the same time is not recommended because of their different pH levels. I suggest using them at different times of day, or waiting 30 minutes after your salicylic acid to apply the niacinamide.

Niacinamide and Retinol

You can use niacinamide and retinol in the same skincare routine. Since they typically have a similar pH level, you can apply them at the same time. Apply the thinnest product first (which will usually be your niacinamide serum).

Niacinamide and Vitamin C

You can use niacinamide and vitamin C in the same skincare routine. But first, you need to know what type of vitamin C you have. Non-acidic vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate can be applied at the same time as niacinamide, since they will have a similar pH level. Acidic forms of vitamin C such as L-ascorbic acid should be used at a different time than niacinamide (or 30 minutes apart), since they have different pH levels.

Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid

You can use hyaluronic acid and niacinamide in the same skincare routine. They have similar pH levels, you can safely mix or layer them at the same time. Apply the thinnest product first.

Potential Side Effects