Is Self-Tanner Bad for You? This Is What You Need to Know About Fake Tan and Your Skin

We all know that the sun is our skin’s greatest enemy. Not only can it cause a sunburn, too much exposure could lead to skin cancer and premature aging. So if you love the look of a tan, the only safe way to get it is from a tube of self-tanner. Or is it? 

While a fake tan is definitely preferable to lying out in the sun or on a tanning bed, it may not be as harmless as you think. In this tutorial, you’ll find out how self-tanner actually works—and how the chemical reaction it triggers can affect your skin.

But it’s not all bad news. I’ve also got tips on how to use self-tanner the right way to minimize damage, plus the best alternatives that’ll give you the same bronzed effect.

How Does Self-Tanner Work?

First, let’s talk about the mechanism behind self-tanners (as well as spray tans) that creates the look of tanned skin.

The active ingredient in tanning solutions is called dihydroxyacetone. Also known as DHA, it is a simple carbohydrate derived from natural sources such as beets and sugar cane.¹

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When you apply a product containing DHA, it reacts with the amino acids in the top layer of your skin, the stratum corneum.² This generates pigments called melanoidins that darken your skin colour, imitating the natural tan created by melanin.³

This process is called the “Maillard reaction,” and it also occurs whenever you cook food at high temperatures (like when you toast bread, caramelize sugar or grill meat). It starts within two to four hours after applying DHA and continues for up to 72 hours.⁴ During this time, you will notice a distinctive odour on your skin, because of the chemical reaction taking place. All DHA-based formulas produce this telltale smell, but brands may use various fragrances to mask it (often not very well!).

Your resulting tan can last up to 10 days, but will start to gradually fade within three to seven days as you naturally shed dead skin cells.^4,5

Is Self-Tanner Bad for You?

So what’s the problem with self-tanner? As you may have guessed, it’s the active ingredient, DHA, and the chemical reaction that takes place after you apply it to your skin. Here’s what you should know:

✗ Generates Free Radicals

The Maillard reaction triggered by self-tanners releases free radicals. These are highly reactive molecules that can attack your cell structures, degrade your collagen and elastin fibers, and promote skin aging and wrinkle formation.^5,6

If you expose your skin to the sun after applying self-tanner, even more free radicals will be produced. In one study that compared bare skin to skin that was treated by self-tanner, the findings were shocking: “In DHA-treated skin, more than 180% additional radicals were generated during sun exposure with respect to untreated skin.”⁷

Keep in mind that they used a 20% DHA solution, whereas most self-tanners only contain 3-5%.¹ Even still, there are doubts about its long-term safety, since other researchers have have found a link between DHA and DNA damage. One study concluded: “The genotoxic capacity of DHA raises a question about the long-term clinical consequences of treatment of the skin with this commonly used compound.”^8,9

✗ Can Darken Pores and Lead to Breakouts

If self-tanner is a staple in your skincare routine, you may have noticed that it’s darkening your pores.

“Regular use of self-tanner is typically paired with a lack of exfoliation—you don’t want to take off the tan,” says Autumn Henry, a New York-based esthetician. “But this combination ultimately leads to a staining of the sebum and dead skin cells that congest our pores. I can always spot a fake tan because the minute I turn on my mag lamp I see the tell-tale brown buildup littering the pores—think tiny freckles, but less cute.”¹⁰

But these “brownheads” aren’t really a stain. According to Dr. Francesca Fusco, they’re typically caused by the free radicals released by self-tanners. “When free radicals interact with other molecules in the body, the reactions are called oxidation. In the case of clogged pores, this can result in a darkening of the contents. In a similar way, oxidation is what causes cut fruit to turn brown as it is exposed to air.”¹⁰

That’s not all. This oxidation process causes sebum to become more comedogenic while increasing inflammation, both of which can lead to acne.¹¹

✗ May Cause Skin Irritation

For some people, self-tanner may trigger skin irritation. One study found that regular applications of DHA caused contact dermatitis and a damaged stratum corneum.¹²  Plus, we know that virtually all self-tanners contain masking fragrances, and fragrance is a common cause of skin reactions.¹³

⚠️ These concerns apply to spray tans, too. In fact, spray tans are even riskier than self-tanners. When DHA is inhaled or exposed to mucous membranes, it can cause serious harm to your respiratory system, and may even promote certain cancers.³

What About “DHA-Free” Self-Tanner?

“DHA-free” self-tanners promise a gentler, more gradual glow without the use of dihydroxyacetone. Sounds perfect, right? 

Not exactly. The active ingredient in DHA-free tanners is erythrulose—and it’s essentially the same thing as DHA.

According to The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology: “Erythrulose is similar in composition to DHA. It is found naturally in red raspberries. Applied by itself, erythrulose takes longer to produce a tan, and the resulting tan fades quicker. The tan produced is also more red than brown in appearance. Erythrulose, however, has also been shown to increase production of free radicals similar to the effect seen with DHA.”³

So if you think you can avoid the negative effects of DHA by choosing a DHA-free formula, think again.

How to Use Self-Tanner the Right Way

Fortunately, there are a few things you can do to make self-tanner less harmful:

✓ Apply Self-Tanner At Night

Since UV rays will amplify free radicals on DHA-treated skin, you should always avoid unprotected sun exposure after putting on self-tanner. Researchers have found that the excess free radical production is reduced after four hours.¹⁴

For this reason, I suggest doing your self-tanner application at night. By morning, you won’t need to worry about the excess free radicals.

Try a product like Isle of Paradise Self-Tanning Water, which is suitable for face and body, sprays on, and absorbs in seconds.

✓ Protect Self-Tanned Skin with Sunscreen

If you need to go out in the sun within four hours of applying self-tanner, make sure to protect your skin with sunscreen. Otherwise, the DHA-treated areas will trigger a cascade of aging, inflammatory free radicals.

Before you apply your sunscreen, make sure the tanner has absorbed and is dry to the touch (otherwise it could interfere with colour development). To get the best broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, choose a mineral formula with at least 15-20% zinc oxide.

To enhance your glow, try Solara Suncare Glow Getter Nutrient Boosted Daily Sunscreen SPF 30, which is spiked with shimmer. (For face, my pick is Kinfield Sunglow Luminizing Facial Sunscreen Lotion SPF 35, an illuminating tinted formula.)

For more SPF recommendations, see my guides to the best mineral sunscreens for face and body.

✓ Apply Topical Antioxidants

Some experts suggest that applying an antioxidant to your skin before and after using self-tanner could help to minimize the free radical damage from DHA.¹⁵ Vitamins A, B3, C and E are among the best antioxidants to choose from.

For your face, SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic is the gold standard vitamin C serum, but Timeless and Paula’s Choice have similar, less expensive formulas. If you can’t tolerate L-ascorbic acid, try a niacinamide (vitamin B3) serum. I love the formulas from Allies of Skin, Paula’s Choice and The Inkey List.

For your body, niacinamide is also ideal, since it’s relatively inexpensive and doesn’t have the stability issues associated with vitamin C. I recommend Paula’s Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum, which gives you an impressive 5% concentration in a lightweight, milky serum.

The Best Self-Tanner Alternatives

There’s one more way you can avoid the problems associated with self-tanner, and that’s by switching to a face or body bronzer instead. There’s a new generation of products that can instantly mimic a natural tan—no waiting around for the colour to develop, and no icky self-tanner smell. Plus, they wash right off with soap and water.

Here are some of the best self-tanner alternatives to try:

For Face: Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Hue Drops

With Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Hue Drops, you get sun-kissed colour plus the brightening and hydrating benefits of niacinamide. This is a tinted version of the brand’s original niacinamide serum, and it delivers a buildable warm tint with a dewy sheen.

For Body: Fenty Beauty Body Sauce Body Luminizing Tint

Fenty Beauty Body Sauce Body Luminizing Tint is has one of the most extensive shade ranges, with seven shimmery tints to choose from. They’re all buildable to your desired level of colour payoff, drying down to become transfer-resistsant and sweat-resistant.

For Face: Saie Dew Bronze Soft-Focus Effortless Liquid Bronzer

Saie Dew Bronze Soft-Focus Effortless Liquid Bronzer is a buildable creamy bronzer for your face. It has a weightless texture, subtly blurs imperfections, and comes in six shades with options for both cool and warm undertone