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Biologique Recherche Lotion P50: Everything You Need to Know About This Line of Cult-Favourite Exfoliating Toners
In an age where almost every skincare brand imaginable is available with a click of the mouse, Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 is one of the few TRUE cult beauty products to get excited about.
It’s hard to get hold of, and quite possibly, it could change your skin—and your life.
That’s right. Those in the know have praised this magical liquid as “life-changing,” “a miracle,” and “Jesus in a bottle.” A few years back, Allure even named it number one on its list of the best beauty products of all time. Celebrity fans include Madonna, Nicole Richie, Sharon Stone and Brad Pitt. (Of course Brad Pitt has a fancy skincare regimen.)
I first started using Lotion P50 when I managed to score a sample back in my magazine editor days (it wasn’t even sold in Canada at the time). When the brand landed here in 2014, I was ecstatic to have a readily available supply, so I could finally commit to their recommended twice-daily application. And... WOW. I can’t think of any other topical product that will make such rapid, dramatic improvements to your skin.
Keep reading to find out about the different types of P50, and why this product makes editors, celebs and skincare junkies go bananas.
What Is Lotion P50?
First of all, it’s not a lotion. And it’s not really a toner, although I suppose that’s the closest category you could place it in. It’s more of a hybrid—a clear liquid that exfoliates and balances all skin types. You’re meant to use it twice a day, after cleansing and before moisturizer and makeup.
A couple drops are all that’s needed, applied on a cotton pad (like my trusty Shiseido Facial Cotton). They say to start with a damp cotton pad and to rinse it off after application, but as your skin gets used to it, you can apply it with a dry pad and just leave it on your skin. You may get a “tingle” and some redness at first, but that should subside within a few minutes. Provided you’re using the right strength, tingling should stop happening altogether after a few days.
When you first open a bottle, you WILL notice the smell. It’s not unpleasant... but it’s definitely “unique.”{ The ingredients include witch hazel, myrrh extract, sage extract... and onion extract. But rather than being stinky, I just find it a bit medicinal. You do get used to it over time!
Lotion P50 Ingredients and Benefits
Inside Lotion P50T, find alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, cider vinegar and niacinamide.
There are several versions of Lotion P50, but before we get into those, let’s talk about what’s in this stuff that makes it so special:
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
Specifically, lactic acid (derived from milk sugars) and citric acid (from lemons and oranges). The activity level of AHAs can vary, depending on how concentrated they are and the pH of the formula. In Biologique Recherche products, the molecules have a high acid ratio and low salt—which means they are both exfoliating and hydrating.
Beta-Hydroxy Acid
Salicylic acid is naturally synthesized by certain plants, such as willow, and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Compared to AHAs, it penetrates the pores more easily in order to dissolve dead cells that may be causing obstructions.
Cider Vinegar
Created from fermented apples, cider vinegar contains citric and malic acids. Thanks to its high tannin content, it also has purifying and astringent properties.
Poly-Hydroxy Acid
Gluconolactone is present in honey and fruit juices. It’s a less penetrative exfoliant than AHAs, but also less irritating.
Niacinamide
This multitasking ingredient helps fade pigmentation and has an anti-inflammatory effect.
Horseradish, Burdock and Capsicum Extracts
The horseradish has antibacterial properties and can help regulate sebum production. Capsicum is purifying and antiseptic, while burdock is moisturizing, healing and calming. Burdock also has the unique ability to balance combination skin, hydrating dry zones while purifying and regulating oily areas.
Magneium Chloride
It has healing, antiseptic and sebum-regulating qualities that can hep with acne and eczema.
Arnica Extract
Arnica has a soothing, protective and anti-inflammatory action.
Natural Moisturizing Factors
These are ingredients, such as urea, lactates and sugars, that mimic the substances found in healthy skin.
Types of Lotion P50
Lotion P50T is a new version of Lotion P50, with a higher pH.
So what's the difference between the different types of Lotion P50? Here’s an overview:
Lotion P50 1970
Lotion P50 1970 is the original formula, first developed back in the 1970s. Although it is available in the US, it’s not sold in some jurisdictions (such as Canada) because it contains phenol, a numbing antiseptic that has some safety concerns. (I got a bottle of this back in my magazine days, and I can attest to the fact that yes, it’s VERY strong, and the phenol makes your face go temporarily numb!)
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Phenol, Niacinamide, Vinegar (Acetum), Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Lactic Acid, Arctium Lappa Root (Burdock Root) Extract, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Sulfur.
Lotion P50
Lotion P50 is the phenol-free version of the original formula, targeted at normal to oily, thick skin. It’s said to have a concentration of 12.85% AHAs and a pH of 3.0. However, it is not allowed to be sold in some jurisdictions (including Canada, which only allows a maximum of 10% AHAs with a minimum 3.5 pH.)
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar (Acetum), Phytic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root (Burdock Root) Extract, Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil, Sulfur, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate.
Lotion P50T
Lotion P50T is a new version that was specifically created for countries, such as Canada, that require products to have a certain minimum pH level. (So this one is not sold in the US.) It has a pH of 3.5-4.0. We’re not told the concentration of AHAs, but we can assume that it’s 10% or lower. I was told by the brand that this is the mildest formula of all.
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar (Acetum), Citric Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Salicylate, Sodium Benzoate, TEA-Lactate, Sorbitol.
Lotion P50W
Lotion P50W is a milder version for sensitive skin. It’s said to have a concentration of 9.3% AHAs and a pH of 3.5.
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar (Acetum), Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Sulfur, Allantoin, Sodium Salicylate, Serine, Urea, Sorbitol, TEA-Lactate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Benzoate.
Lotion P50V
Lotion P50V is a vitamin-enriched formula for normal to dry and mature skin types. (Think “V" for vitamins.) It contains ingredients that help to lighten discolourations. No word on the concentration of AHAs, but the pH is said to be 3.5.
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Vinegar (Acetum), Magnesium Chloride, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Phytic Acid, Spongilla Lacustris Spicule Extract, Yeast Extract (Faex Extract), Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Sulfur, Sodium Salicylate, Salicylic Acid, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Benzoate.
Lotion P50V 1970
Lotion P50V 1970 is similar to the vitamin-enriched Lotion P50V, but with a much shorter ingredients list and the addition of phenol. That means it’s not sold in certain jurisdictions, including Canada.
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Phenol, Lactic Acid, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar (Acetum), Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Benzoate.
Lotion P50 PIGM 400
Lotion P50 PIGM 400 helps to fade existing pigmentation, as well as prevent it from appearing in the first place. It contains a higher concentration of niacinamide, and the new additions of mandelic acid and botanical extracts. It is said to have a 4.0 pH level.
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Gluconate, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Mandelic Acid, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Magnesium Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Levulinic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Salicylate, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Vinegar (Acetum), Sodium Levulinate, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol Denat., Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbic Acid, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract.
Which Lotion P50 Should You Use?
Like I said, you first have to go through a skin diagnosis with a Biologique Recherche representative to determine which version of Lotion P50 would be best for you (since there’s one for every skin type).
If You’re New to the Brand
They’ll start you out on either Lotion P50W or Lotion P50T, the two mildest formulas. The idea is that you can work your way up to a stronger formula later on, if necessary.
If You Have Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin types will want to stick with Lotion P50W or Lotion P50T, since they’re the most gentle.
If You Have Oily or Acne-Prone Skin
After your skin adjusts to Lotion P50W or Lotion P50T, the brand may recommend that you move up to Lotion P50 or Lotion P50 1970. These are the strongest formulas in the range and good for what they call “hyper-keratinized” skin conditions. These will do the most to help regulate sebum production and purify the pores
If you Have Dry or Mature Skin
Lotion P50V and Lotion P50V 1970 are your best bets because they have more support for the skin barrier.
If You Have Hyperpigmentation
You’ll get the most brightening benefits from Lotion P50 PIGM 400.
How to Use Lotion P50
Use a cotton pad to swipe Lotion P50T over your face, neck and décollatage.
Lotion P50 should be used on clean skin, after washing your face, morning and night.
If you’re new to acids, start by dampening a cotton pad with a bit of water. (Shiseido Facial Cotton are my faves!) The water will dilute the acid until you become accustomed to it. After the first week, if your skin is tolerating it well, you can use dry cotton pads.
Apply a few drops of Lotion P50 to the pad, and swipe it across your face, neck and décollatage.
If you find it’s too strong, you can spray your skin with a face mist after a few moments, to neutralize the acid. Otherwise, simply leave it on your skin and continue with the rest of your skincare routine.
Don’t forget to use sunscreen, since AHAs increase sun sensitivity!
What Results Can You Expect From Lotion P50?
No matter what version of Lotion P50 you try, it WILL change your skin!
Some of the benefits you can expect (and that I have experienced myself) from Lotion P50 include:
- Brighter skin: Since the product is gently exfoliating and speeding up cell turnover, it makes your