Bakuchiol: What It Is, How It Can Help Your Skin and the Best Way to Use It in Your Routine

Retinol has long been the darling of the skincare world for its ability to treat wrinkles, pigmentation and breakouts. But there’s a catch—it often causes skin to become dry and irritated. 

That’s why some skincare brands have been turning to a new, natural alternative to retinol: bakuchiol. It promises the same amazing skin benefits, but with none of the annoying side effects.

So, should you ditch your retinol and try this trendy skincare ingredient? In this tutorial, you will learn what bakuchiol can do for your skin, how it compares to retinol, and how to use it in your routine.

What Is Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is derived from the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), which is native to India and Sri Lanka and has been used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine for centuries. The compound is extracted from the seeds and leaves, and then it is commercially purified.¹

You may have seen products advertised as “bakuchiol” that contain babchi oil or extract instead. While they will contain some bakuchiol, it won’t concentrated enough to get the full benefits. Plus, depending on the purification method, they may have phytotoxic components that can increase photosensitivity.² So, you specifically want to look for bakuchiol when scanning ingredients lists.

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What Does Bakuchiol Do for Your Skin?

While bakuchiol doesn’t have the vast amount of clinical data behind it like retinol, these are the key skin benefits that researchers have identified so far: 

✓ Improves Signs of Aging

Bakuchiol shows the most promise for treating the signs of aging. Just like retinol, it has been found to regulate gene expression and stimulate collagen-producing receptors in the skin.³

In one study, after participants applied 0.5% of the ingredient twice daily for 12 weeks, there was a significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, elasticity, firmness and sun damage.³

Another study compared the same amount, 0.5% twice daily, against a 0.5% retinol cream. After 12 weeks, both treatments significantly decreased wrinkles, but the bakuchiol was better tolerated. The retinol users reported side effects like scaling and stinging.⁴

✓ Fades Pigmentation

If you’re dealing with dark spots or discolouration, bakuchiol could be worth trying. It works by suppressing the hormone that is responsible for stimulating melanin formation in the skin.⁵

The same two studies that demonstrated the effectiveness of 0.5% bakuchiol on signs of aging also showed that it decreased pigmentation after 12 weeks of use (twice daily).^3,4 

Another group of researchers found that bakuchiol actually worked better than alpha-arbutin (a popular hydroquinone derivative) for inhibiting melanin production.⁶

✓ Reduces Acne

Bakuchiol can help to treat and prevent acne. It has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, and reduces the activity of the enzyme that activates sebum production (5-alpha-reductase). It also counteracts lipid peroxidation (the oxidation of squalene and other components of sebum), which is a little-known trigger for breakouts.^7,8

In one study that was conducted on patients with mild, moderate and severe acne, 1% bakuchiol, applied twice daily, reduced acne by 57% after six weeks of use. In comparison, 2% salicylic acid, twice daily, only reduced acne by 48% over the same time period.⁷

But the best results were obtained from a combination of 1% bakuchiol and 2% salicylic acid. Together, they led to a 67% reduction in acne after six weeks of twice-daily usage.⁷

✓ Protects From Free Radicals

Bakuchiol is a potent antioxidant. So it can help to protect your skin from the damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules we’re exposed to from UV rays, pollution and other environmental sources.

Specifically, it prevents free radicals from “stealing” electrons from the natural lipids in your skin. This is a process that triggers their oxidative degradation—a major factor in skin aging.⁹

In fact, bakuchiol has been found to have broader antioxidant activity than both vitamin E and retinol.^9,10

Is Bakuchiol as Good as Retinol?

Bakuchiol could be a better option than retinol if you’re looking for a gentle and plant-based treatment that will still deliver visible results. 

Here’s how bakuchiol compares to retinol:

• Equally effective at 0.5%: Applying bakuchiol morning and night can be just as effective as nightly retinol. The two ingredients were put head to head over a 12 week period, and there was no statistically significant difference between the results using a 0.5% concentration of each.⁴ Just keep in mind that bakuchiol won’t be comparable to stronger retinoids, such as retinaldehyde or prescription retinoic acid.
• Less drying and irritating: Bakuchiol is definitely gentler on your skin than retinol. While the vitamin A family is notorious for causing scaling and stinging, bakuchiol has proven to be generally well-tolerated, without these undesirable side effects.^3,4
• Can be used morning and night: Retinol and other forms of vitamin A need to be worn at night, since UV rays can break them down and make them less effective. Plus, they can increase photosensitivity, making your skin more susceptible to sun damage. In contrast, bakuchiol can be applied day and night. It doesn’t make your skin more sun-sensitive, and it’s stable in UV light.⁹

Is Bakuchiol Safe for Pregnancy?

Doctors generally recommend that women avoid topical and oral retinoids, including retinol, during pregnancy and breastfeeding. But whether bakuchiol is a safer substitute remains to be seen.

Some dermatologists, like Dr. Dendy Engelman, do think that it is a safe substitute for retinol. “Unlike retinols that should be avoided while pregnant, bakuchiol is safe to use.”¹¹

Others are waiting to see more evidence. “I always recommend checking with your doctor if you’re pregnant or nursing before you put anything on your skin,” says Dr. Mona Gohara. “While, yes, bakuchiol is a plant, there isn’t sufficient testing on it just yet to make a blanket safety ruling.”¹² Dr. Rachel Narazian has similar concerns. “There is not enough evidence to encourage pregnant women to use it, [but] its botanical etiology may make it a safer option.”¹³

Dr. Denis Dudley brings a unique perspective as both a skincare expert (he’s the co-founder of The Sunscreen Company) and as a retired fetal/maternal specialist in obstetrics and gynecology. He believes that bakuchiol has “a lack of evidence to support safety claims for pregnant women” on the basis that it absorbs into the body, has a similar chemical structure to retinol, and could have endocrine-disrupting effects.¹⁴

How to Use Bakuchiol in Your Skincare Routine

To get the most out of this ingredient, look for a product that contains at least 0.5-1% bakuchiol. According to research, the 0.5% concentration is enough to visibly improve signs of aging and hyperpigmentation after 12 weeks, while 1% improves acne in as little as six weeks (especially in combination with 2% salicylic acid).^4,7

Figuring out where it belongs in your skincare routine depends on whether it’s infused into a serum, moisturizer or face oil:

• Bakuchiol serum: Apply it after cleansing and before moisturizer. Since bakuchiol has a neutral pH, it’s a good idea to apply it away from acidic products such as AHAs, BHAs or vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid. Alternatively, you can incorporate a waiting period of about 30 minutes. 
• Bakuchiol moisturizer: Apply it after cleansing. Follow during the day with a good sunscreen.
• Bakuchiol oil: If the bakuchiol is suspended in a fast-absorbing oil like squalane, you can apply it underneath your moisturizer. You can also layer it on top of moisturizer, or even mix it into your favourite creams or serums to add extra moisture and an antioxidant and anti-aging boost.

Bakuchiol is safe to apply as often as twice daily, morning and night.

Conclusion + Further Reading

Now you know what bakuchiol can do, and how it compares to retinol.

Personally, I think it’s a great alternative to the retinoid family if you are looking for a gentle and natural active ingredient, and if your skin is in good shape but tends to be a little sensitive. If you’re breakout-prone, it would also be worthwhile adding to your routine in addition to a BHA treatment like salicylic acid.

However, for significant sun damage and signs of aging, you may be better off sticking with retinol or other types of retinoids. Not only do they have more proof behind then, they can also give you more dramatic results than are possible with bakuchiol alone.

Can’t decide? You can get the best of both worlds by using a formula that contains both bakuchiol and retinol. Each ingredient will give you an array of anti-aging and anti-acne benefits, and the bakuchiol will actually help to stabilize the retinol to make it more effective.⁹ It’s a win-win!

Learn More From This Related Article

Editor’s Picks: 9 of the Best Bakuchiol Products (Also Known as “Nature’s Retinol”) for Your Skin

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